I’ve noticed it’s that time of year for the winter threads to start springing back up, so I thought I’d provide an FAQ megathread thing. Feel free to add any thoughts in the comments!
*Safety and a willingness to obey the rules are of the first importance in the performance of duty.*
_**If in doubt, the safe course must be taken.**_
For all the new drivers out there, remember that you’re the final authority in charge of your truck. Loads can be rescheduled. If you think the weather is not safe to travel, park it and let your office deal with rebooking. Late is preferable to fished out of a ditch.
**What should I wear?**
This depends on your job. Generally, you’ll wear much the same while driving in winter as you would in summer. Maybe not shorts, but your cab is heated.
If you need to go outside, you’ll want to dress for the conditions and the work you’ll be doing. You’ll also want to layer up. Throw on a hoodie and a windbreaker, boots, a toque, and gloves, and you’ll probably be fine if you’re doing the usual OTR things like fueling, wandering to the shipping office, or dropping and pinning trailers. Match your dress to your activity so sweating is avoided. If you feel warm, open or shed a layer. You’ll be surprised how little you’re wearing while you work.
If you’re cold, or if your hands are cold, don’t be too stubborn to warm up in your cab, that’s what it’s there for.
**What should I carry on board?**
Generally you want to be prepared to get stranded in a rest area for a few days. I recommend carrying nonperishable food for a few weeks, water, and if you have a fridge and microwave of course ‘wet’ and frozen goods are okay as well.
You’ll want to have a comforter and a few blankets for your bunk, as well as flannel pajamas, to retain body heat in case your espar quits. Add a few candles, a box of matches, and a lighter to your first aid kit. Beeswax is preferred, but not required.
Regarding the truck, you’ll want to change out the washer fluid with the lowest temperature rating you can find, both the stored stuff and in the reservoir. If all that’s available is +32°f, dump a bottle of air brake antifreeze in before topping up.
You’ll also want to carry a jug of DEF and a bottle of Diesel 911 or similar. DEF pumps have this nasty habit of freezing when you’re running low.
The Diesel 911 is designed to liquefy gelled diesel. It’s your plan B. This is why the bottle is red. Don’t use it to treat your fuel, it won’t work.
**What about fuel?**
Diesel fuel is a lower fraction than gas, which means it’s closer to being a solid than gas is. This also means that at low temperatures, some of the hydrocarbons in it begin to solidify.
This turns the liquid diesel into a waxy gel that can’t go through filters. This can be a problem.
Biodiesel can also ice up. Because it contains a large fraction of ethanol, it’s hygroscopic. If it’s cold enough, that water can freeze and clump just like the diesel itself will. This also plugs the filter.
Different truck stops in different regions sell different fuel cuts for different seasons. The rule of thumb I was taught is that above I90 the fuel will be a B0 cut with additives, between I90 and I80 it’ll be B5 with additives, and below I80 it could be anything. Basically, the further north you go, the better the fuel is winterized.
To treat fuel, you’ll want Diesel Fuel Supplement or comparable. Read the instructions on the label, and use only the amount they tell you to use. Using too much treatment negates its effect.
**What about chains?**
You may have been told not to chain. You may have personally made that decision. I respect that.
I firmly believe you need to know how to chain regardless. The situation can change rapidly, especially in mountainous areas. You may be caught unexpectedly by a chain order coming on as you’re driving towards it, and your next safe stopping area is on the far side.
You do not want to learn how to chain in this situation.
I recommend throwing a few chains at the company yard or if you’re taking a reset, so you at least know how and have some experience.
A few pointers:
Lay out your chain next to the tire before putting it on. Inspect it to make sure it isn’t twisted, the moon cams and boomer are open and on the side of the tire, and the cross chain hooks have their points facing the ground.
Pick up the rail closest to you and drape it over the outside tire, so it falls between the tires. Your moon cams should be on the outside and the cross chain hooks should now have their points away from the tire.
Wiggle the chain along the tire so one cross chain is wedged between the tread and the ground, and the rails are even on both sides.
Repeat with the rest of your chains as required, making sure all the chains have the same direction of slack.
Move the truck two feet in the direction that runs over the first cross chain you wedged under the tires.
Now, hook up the ends of the chain between the tires and on the outside. Try to get about the same number of links on each rail and try to get them as tight as you can before flipping moon cams.
Move back and forth a few times, about half a trailer length, then check every chain for tension. If any are loose, flip the moon cams open and take out another link. Then close them again. The tighter you get them, the better.
Remember to control your ends using bungees or zip ties to keep them from flailing into anything. This is especially important with airbags and triple rail chains.
Remember that your top speed with chains is greatly reduced. You should never exceed 25 MPH.
You can find plenty of videos online as well. Take the time to watch them now, just in case. Even if you intend to park.
**How do I drive?**
This depends on conditions. Generally, the advice is to drive slower and more gentle. You’ll want to be more deliberate with accelerating, braking, and turning, as sudden maneuvers could result in a loss of traction on slippery surfaces such as ice or snow. Increase your following distance. Descend grades slower, and practice using a bit of jake in winter.
Learn to read the road surface. If it looks wet but there is no spray from vehicles, it’s icy. A thin dusting of white can be indicative of salt, if it’s covered in snow, it might be hard pack or fluffy. All of these conditions affect traction differently. There might also be conditions you can’t see, like black ice. These tend to occur where vehicles cue for lights or stop signs, but can occur anywhere.
If you’re parking in snow, roll back and forth a few times after stopping to cool the tires and pack down the snow, and keep your trailer air button pushed in. That avoids headaches when you go to leave.
**Conclusion**
Winter is an exciting time and the time we earn our keep. It’s important to maintain a healthy respect for the weather and the roads and to be prepared for whatever she throws your way.
Feel free to add your questions, comments, experiences, and tips below.
Thanks!
